Only have two days in the Dolomites? You can’t see it all, but you can make the most of your time there. I am sharing our two action-packed days in the Dolomites, filled with cable cars, mountain peaks, and melodious cows adorned with cowbells.

First, let me start by saying that you should never attempt to drive south on a German holiday unless you want your trip to take twice as long as it should. Unfortunately for us this time around, my husband’s work schedule didn’t permit us to leave promptly for this excursion, so we lost half a day sitting in traffic driving from Germany to Italy. But that’s ok, we still had the best trip!

We based ourselves at the best family-run farm stay right outside the quaint town of Brixen. Our apartment overlooked the Neustift Monastery with sweeping views of olive trees and vineyards all around. It was perfect. On-site, they offered a variety of children’s activities, including a trampoline, a fort with a slide and swings, and a dedicated indoor playroom filled with toys. Included with our stay was the Brixen pass, which provided free entrance to the Plose cable car, the Neustift Monastery, the Hofburg Palace, and other local attractions. This was a bonus we discovered upon check-in.

Day 1

Lago di Braies
Neustift Monastery
Saint John’s
Saint Magdelena

Sunrise at Lago di Braies

Our first day started at 4:30 and ended at 22:00 when we all collapsed into bed. That was one of the longest days we’ve run with our young children, but they did great, taking car naps whenever they could. We left at 5:00 to try and catch the soft morning light at Lago di Braies without the crowds. Though sunrise was at 5:20, I couldn’t bring myself to wake the kids any earlier, given the hour-long car ride to get there. We arrived just after 6:00, and though the light on the peaks was a bit brighter than I would have preferred, the lake was still stunning in person.

Parking at Lago di Braies (Pragser Wildsee)

If you arrive early enough, you can park at lots P3/P4 (paid parking) next to the lake, and it’s a quick walk. They shut down these parking lots during the peak season (July 10 - September 10) and require you to shuttle in or purchase a permit online in advance between 9:30 and 16:00. You can find this information here.

It seems that if you arrive before 9:00 during peak season, you can still drive up to and park by the lake, but it’s worth double-checking if you plan to visit during these months. The park itself is free to walk around. There were a handful of photographers roaming around, and a few people spread out around the park, taking in the lake’s peacefulness and stunning views. We spent an hour here before heading back towards Brixen.

We ended up driving to Ortisei and exploring there, scoping out where we needed to be the next day for the cable car up the mountain. If I had planned better (you will be able to with this guide!), I would have had us go directly to Seceda that morning since we arrived there by 9:00. Or, if you want to explore castles after the lake, check out Castel Taufers, Runkelstein Castle, or Prösels Castles. I thought we would spend more time at Lago di Braies, but the kids were cold and not quite awake enough to wait until the boats opened at 9:00. After some local exploring (I’ll share more of that for Day Two below), we returned to our farm stay to unwind and let the kids play for a bit.

Explore the Neustift Monastery (Abbazia di Novacello) & an early dinner

By 16:30, we were back on the go, exploring the grounds of the Neustift monastery, conveniently located just below our accommodations. After a quick tour of the grounds and a peek into the chapel, we grabbed an early dinner at Peter’s Bistro next to the monastery. Fueled adequately for our next trek, we set out to the viewpoint of Saint Magdelena.

Saint Magdelena and Saint John’s for sunset

We parked here, between the viewpoints for Saint John’s and Saint Magdalena.

After we parked, we walked up to the viewpoint of Saint John so I could grab a few photos in case it was too dark after Saint Magdelena. From Saint John, we headed back towards the Saint Magdalena viewpoint. If you are walking between these two, allow thirty to forty minutes to get from Saint John to the viewpoint of Saint Magdelena. We had plenty of time before sunset, and the kids wanted to walk, so we let them roam at their own pace while making our way over. The trail is straightforward to find and follow; look for the wooden signs and follow their direction.

*Saint Magdelena from the viewpoint. Photographed with the* *Sony A1* *+ 24-70mm f2.8 lens.*

As you approach the church, look across the valley, and you will see everyone set up with tripods and cameras, vying for the perfect shot. The walk (when weighted down with a 30-pound squirming toddler on your back) is a little hilly going up, but not terrible. Take your time and enjoy the spectacular views all around you. If you’re inclined, pack a blanket and light refreshments to enjoy while the sun sets, illuminating the peaks in front of you in a pink hue.

After an hour of watching the light slowly dip, we trekked back to our parking spot, and I made one more quick image at the Church of Saint John as the last colors faded in the peaks behind.

*Saint John’s Church as the light faded away. From this viewpoint, you are a bit limited with compositions with the fence around it.*

Day 2

Seceda cable car
Explore Ortisei
Trostburg Castle
Plose cable car
Explore Brixen

Seceda Cable Car

We kicked off our day with a ride on the Seceda Cable Car. It opens at 8:30, and we arrived a few minutes prior, allowing us to park directly underneath in the covered parking lot labeled “Seceda.” As the day goes on, the parking lots fill up, and you will have to park in the other lots in town and walk over the cable car entrance. Purchase your tickets online and have your QR code ready when you go up to the top and when you come back down. Maps of the various trails are available, and the famous viewing point is a ten-minute walk (straight uphill).

Depending on the day, the views may be enshrined in clouds, or you could luck out and have a clear day. When we got off the cable car, the entire area was enveloped in a cloud, but eventually, some of it wore away. I never did get a fully clear photo of all of the peaks; I guess that means I have to go back.

After we walked a loop with the kids and took photos from the lookout point, we relaxed at the hut on top of the cable car station since it had a playground for the kids to enjoy. The highlight of the meal was a delicious Seceda spritzer. Satiated, we made our way back down and into Ortisei.

Seceda Cable Car: 8:30-17:30 | €52 round-trip per adult, children 8 and under free.

Ortisei

The town of Ortisei (Urtijëi) is filled with restaurants and artisan shops. The brightly colored downtown area is perfect for photos, and you can refill your water bottle at the fountain located in the square. Dine at Café Corso and then pick out the perfect bottle (or three) of wine at Avensani. They offer a fantastic selection of meats (including wild game such as boar and elk), cheeses, and a fully stocked wine cellar. Their staff was extremely helpful and friendly, assisting me in selecting two local wines to take home. This shop is worth a stop to support.

Trostburg Castle: Open Monday-Thursdays only.

After a morning spent high in the mountains, we made a quick stop at Trostburg Castle on our way back to Brixen. With the kids snoozing in their car seats, I had some time to wander around the exterior and capture some photos and videos. We had the place to ourselves since the castle isn’t open on Saturdays anyway.

Trostburg’s story stretches back an incredible 852 years. The inner courtyard was built around 1230, with the surrounding three-story palace expanded in the 17th century. It was once home to the influential Tyrolean noble family von Wolkenstein, who held it as their primary residence for nearly 600 years.

Facing imminent decay, the castle was saved in the 20th century by the South Tyrolean Castle Institute and a dedicated group of preservationists. Since 1977, it’s been open to the public.

Info: Open Monday through Thursday, with access inside available only via private tours. Tours are offered in German and Italian; pre-arranged tours in English must be booked in advance. Visit their website for seasonal hours and information.

Adults: €9, children 6 and under free

Parking: There is no real lot, and the road to get to the castle is extremely narrow (like, car game of chicken narrow on the side of a mountain). They recommend taking a taxi up from town or making the 50-minute walk up to visit.

Other castles nearby worth a visit:

Tyrol Castle (Castel Tirolo)
Brunnenburg Castle (Castel Fontana)
Burg Taufers (Castel Tures)
Churburg Castle (Castel Coira)
Reifenstein Castle (Castel Tasso)
Runkelstein Castle (Castel Roncolo)
Lebenberg Castle (Castel Monteleone)
Prösels Castle (Castle Presule)

Plose Cable Car

*Plose views when you first exit the cable cars*

Plose Cable Car was included in our Brixen pass so we decided to go up in the late afternoon. At the top, there is a kids’ playground, cows grazing, and many food options. There is also a longer metal slide, a five-minute walk down the hill to the left, where you can find the cows. On your way up, you can hop off at the first stop if you want to get out and walk over to the pen of sheep next to the cable car stop. This area is filled with trails dedicated to mountain biking enthusiasts.

Explore Brixen

We wrapped up our action-packed day with dinner at Restaurant Pizzeria Kutscherhof in the charming town of Brixen, followed by a sweet treat from 828 Gelateria by Traube. Brixen has so much to offer; we only scratched the surface, but it made for the perfect home base during our Dolomites adventure. After a whirlwind two days, we’re already dreaming about our return.

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