The perfect 3-day Himarë itinerary
Albania had been on my radar for quite a while. The lure of a new country, plus a $130 round-trip direct flight from Stuttgart on Wizz Air, made it an easy choice for our latest girls' trip. The only question was where to spend our few days. Should we head north for the Albanian Alps and national parks, or south for beaches, great food, and a slower pace? The Albanian Riviera won this time, and Himarë turned out to be the perfect base for three days of fun.
Blue Hour looking up at Himarë Castle
3-Day Himarë Itinerary at a Glance
Day 0: Arrive in Tirana and stay overnight
Day 1: Visit Berat before driving to Himarë
Day 2: Relax on Livadhi Beach
Day 3: Take a day trip to Corfu, Greece
Day 4: Explore Himarë Castle before driving back to Tirana
Things to know before visiting Himarë
Cash is King
While credit cards are becoming more common, many restaurants, beach bars, cafés, and small businesses in Albania still only accept cash. It's a good idea to carry some Albanian lek (ALL) with you, especially if you're traveling along the Albanian Riviera or visiting smaller towns.
We found the best ATM options were ABI Bank and Union Bank, which typically charged lower withdrawal fees than other banks. When the ATM asks whether you'd like to accept the conversion rate, always decline the conversion. Choosing to be charged in the local currency usually gives you a better exchange rate through your own bank.
Tipping
Tipping isn't mandatory in Albania, but it is appreciated. For a great sit-down meal, it's common to leave 5–10%. At cafés, bakeries, and casual bistros, leaving 50–100 lek is a thoughtful gesture if you received good service.
Driving in Albania
Your home country's driver's license is generally accepted for most visitors, plus a passport (always confirm the latest requirements for your nationality before traveling).
Roads along the Albanian Riviera are scenic but winding.
Expect local drivers to pass frequently and drive assertively.
Google Maps was accurate throughout our trip.
There are plenty of gas stations around, though many will only accept cash. (ALL is preferred, but some will take Euros)
Allow more time than you think when driving between locations.
Day 1: Berat to Himarë
To break up the drive from Tirana to Himarë, stop in Berat on the way. Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, known for its Ottoman houses stacked on the hills. Explore the Berat Castle and Mangalem Quarter. If time allows, visit the Onufri National Museum.
After a few hours in Berat, jump back in the car and finish the drive to Himarë, roughly two hours and 45 minutes, and check into your hotel. We stayed at Blue Horizon, a simple but clean hotel directly across from Livadhi Beach. It included breakfast, free parking, beach towels, and complimentary umbrellas and loungers. It was a great value, although if I return I'd probably splurge on Prado Luxury Hotel or Miamar for a bit more luxury and a pool on site.
After check-in, we threw on our suits and made our way to the beach to enjoy a bit of sunshine and relaxation before dinner. The beach was quite rocky, so make sure you pack water shoes or have sturdy flip-flops for traversing into the water. The turquoise blue water was the perfect temperature for cooling down while it hovered around 92 (34 C) outside. A quick shower and change had us hopping into the car to drive to what became our favorite dinner of the trip.
Fig & Olive Himarë
Dinner at Fig & Olive Himarë
Dinner here was a last-minute decision, and despite there not being any reservations available online, they were able to squeeze the three of us in early at 18:00. When we arrived, the sun was starting to set, and the views from the restaurant already had us feeling happy we had chosen this place for dinner. Located on a hill overlooking Lidvahi Beach, it’s a fantastic spot for watching the sunset and enjoying delicious Mediterranean cuisine. I ordered Aphrodite's Garden to sip on to start, then between the three of us, we shared four appetizers and two entrées. Every dish was excellent, but the biggest surprise came when the bill arrived. Our entire dinner, including drinks, came to just $93.
Day 2: A Relaxing Beach Day in Himarë
After breakfast at our hotel, we went out in search of iced coffees before starting our beach day. Located just up the road was Bakehouse Lidvahi, which appeared to be where all the locals went for their freshly baked goods. We ordered iced cappuccinos and one of their homemade granola bars for a beach snack later. The day was entirely spent on our beach loungers or floating in the water. We walked up to the beach bar run by our hotel and had lunch and an ice-cold beer before returning to our books and loungers.
That evening we had dinner at Jesters, a restaurant that's highly rated online and was recently featured in Travel + Leisure. Unfortunately, it ended up being our least favorite meal of the trip. The location and atmosphere were fantastic, but the food simply didn't live up to the setting. Thankfully, ice cream afterward made up for it.
Day 3: Take a Day Trip to Corfu from Himarë
Agios Gordios, Corfu
One of the biggest reasons we chose Himarë was how easy it is to visit Corfu for the day. A short drive to Sarandë followed by the ferry puts you in Greece in no time, making it one of the easiest international day trips in Europe.
We had originally booked a private boat tour for two hours in the afternoon, but high winds led to it being canceled (the ferry still ran as usual). We pivoted and booked an ATV tour we found in Agios Gordios that included lunch before spending the rest of the day wandering around the Old Town.
We stopped at O Gyros for lunch (great choice), and after an hour of shopping, indulged in two scoops from Papagiorgis Patisserie-Gelateria. Walking headfirst into the wind was our exercise that evening as we made our way back to the ferry terminal for our return ferry. The drive back to Himarë from Sarandë was exhilarating in the dark, so we added to the fun by grabbing gas station snacks for the remaining hour in the car. Always stop for snackies.
Day 4: Explore Himarë Castle Before Heading Home
Views of Lidvahi Beach from Himarë Castle
After one final breakfast at our hotel and filling up on our host’s homemade Albanian “donuts”, we loaded our luggage and drove uphill to Himarë Castle. And confession, we grabbed iced cappuccinos and one last granola bar each for the road from the Bake House (so good).
Smiling and photographing (with consent) the locals hanging out in front, we made our way into Himarë Old Town. Origins here date to the 5th century BC, and it has continuously been inhabited since. The Byzantines built the churches, and the old town housed hundreds of families in the 20th century before dispersing during the Communist era. A few homes still remain occupied year-round.
During your visit, enjoy a beverage and views of Himarë at Café Butterfly after you explore the ruins. The views below of Livadhi Beach are lovely, and you can also see Corfu in the distance. Under a time crunch with a drive back to Tirana to catch our flight, we sadly left the ruins and began our journey back north.
Is Three Days in Himarë Enough?
Three days in Himarë is the perfect amount of time to unwind, enjoy the beaches, explore Himarë Castle, and even squeeze in a day trip to Corfu. If Greece isn't on your list, skip the ferry and spend that extra day discovering more of the Albanian Riviera instead. Take a boat to some of the area's secluded beaches, or experience a different side of the region by visiting a local olive oil producer and learning about one of Albania's oldest traditions.
Final Thoughts
Himarë ended up being exactly what we were looking for: relaxed beach days, incredible food, easy adventures, and just enough exploring to keep things interesting. Between the turquoise water, surprisingly affordable meals, and the ability to spend one day in Greece without changing hotels, it's an easy destination for a long weekend. I already know I'll be back; the Albanian Alps are waiting.
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