Alsace, France: A day trip through fairytale villages and WWII history
Located just a few hours from Stuttgart is the Alsace region of France. This region is famous for its fairytale villages and rolling vineyards, but few people are aware of its tumultuous past. In modern history, this region has changed hands between Germany and France four times, but its fascinating history dates back to the reign of Julius Caesar during the Gallic Wars.
Colmar, France
After Julius Caesar conquered the Alsace region in the 1st century, it was later incorporated into the Holy Roman Empire in the late 8th century under the reign of Charlemagne, unifying France and Germany. It remained under the control of the Holy Roman Empire until the 17th century, though the French influence was already being seen by the late 16th century.
In 1646, the Holy Roman Empire ceded parts of Upper Alsace to France as a part of the Treaty of Westphalia, which ended the 30 Years’ War. France remained in control of Alsace until the Franco-Prussian War (1870-1871), in which the Prussians conquered the area, ceding the region back to the German Empire. It remained under German control until the end of World War I, when it was given back to France in the Treaty of Versailles in 1919.
Fast forward to 1940 and the Second World War, Hitler set his sights on Alsace, mainly due to its historical significance to Germany. When Paris fell to the Nazi regime in June of 1940, within a few weeks, Hitler forced the French to sign an armistice that incorporated Alsace into the Reich. Because of its cultural connections to Germany, Hitler thought he could further the Reich by incorporating Alsace rather than simply occupying it.
In what is called the de-Francinization of the region, Alsatians were declared German citizens, excluding those who were deemed undesirable (Jews, LGBTQ, Resistance fighters, etc), and they were sent away. By 1942, the Alsatians that remained were forced to serve in the Nazi Army, in what was called malgré-nous- “we who are forced against our will”. Roughly 130,000 were sent away to serve, and a third of them never returned.
As the Allies made progress and captured Normandy in 1944, the focus became liberating the rest of France. The United States attacked the Alsace region from the North, while France came up from the South. In Hitler’s very last attempt to remain in control of the area, he launched Operation Nordwind, or North Wind. The Allies were not prepared for such cold temperatures, and many Alsatians were displaced from the fighting and consequential fires, thrusting them into the same frigid temperatures. When the 26-day battle came to an end, the Germans had lost 22,000 troops while the Allies lost 11,000. This hard-fought battle is credited with the Allied victory in Europe just a few months later.
When you visit Alsace now, there is no mistaking the German architecture and influence in the cuisine. Though most speak French, many still speak German or the local Alsatian dialect. It’s a region where sauerkraut meets foie gras, and pretzels are served right next to croissants. It is a unique blend of French and German cultures.
Memorials & WWII Sites
If you want to visit any of the memorials or World War II sites during your visit, here are some to check out:
● Former Concentration Camp of Natzweiler Struthof
● National Necropolis of Sigolsheim
● Shelter Museum
● MM Park France- Collection Dedicated to the 2nd World War
● Serret Museum
● Memorial Museum of the Rhine Maginot Line
● Fort Schoenenbourg-Maginot Line
Fret not, before you endure the groans of your children for being dragged to “boring” museums and historical sites, there’s still one card left to play. The villages throughout Alsace are said to be the inspiration for the town in “Beauty and the Beast,” so if you have any Disney-loving little ones, this is their chance to channel their inner Belle while they explore. They’ll be learning about centuries of fascinating history while simultaneously living out their Disney fantasies. Need something to entice your spouse? I have two words: Christmas Markets.
Villages & Places to visit
● Strasbourg
● Colmar
● Eguisheim
● Riquewihr
● Turckheim
● Kaysersberg
● Bergheim
Strasbourg and Colmar are the larger cities, with Colmar being a great base to visit the smaller villages like Eguisheim and Riquewihr. Strasbourg is a two-hour train ride from Stuttgart or a just under two-hour drive. Although all locations are accessible by public transit, a car is the best mode of transportation for flexibility once you're in the Alsace region if you plan to visit a few villages in one day. If you are looking to spend a day in the area, I recommend exploring two locations, such as Colmar and Eguisheim (my personal favorite).
Summer time brings brimming flower boxes and aperitifs outdoors, while winter brings the aforementioned Christmas markets and festive charm. No matter your reason for visiting, I hope you honor the history and revel in the undeniable charm of these colorful villages.
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